Neck recovery

A 12 month year old bass gets a v´new life in a new trussrod that actually work, reinforced neck, and a brand new fretboard with glue set titanium alloy frets. From good to excellence in one week.

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Here is the culprit. A compression truss rod that had glue on the threads from manufacturing where the truss had simply stuck and couldn´t be adjusted anymore. What happens is that the truss breaks instead. How this bass got through QC just amazes me.

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Here´s the other end (headstock end) where the threads were contaminated with glue. No, drenched with glue…

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Here is the middle stage of neck routing. This is where you can see how exact the neck is made. Or not. Here´s both fretboard and neck.

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People clearly underestimates the importance of the neck construction. I could chip off bits of the fretboard with my nails. As seen in the picture.

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As seen from the body end. In process with glueing in rods of purple heart to reinforce the neck.

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After the reinforcements are glued in, there´s a two day wait for the neck to stabilise before doing the final planing of the neck. Done properly, the end result will be +/- 0,0 mm perfect. What this does is that you´ll have no problems adjusting the bass to a very low action without buzz and adjusting with our two way trusses will allow perfect adjustment along the entire neck length.

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Better view of the somewhat "wavy" neck.

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Purpleheart reinforcements in place and  neck planed to perfection. Next is trussrod routing. Our rods are completely boxed in and maintenance free for a lifetime or two.

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Fretboard on and now´s the trimming part. Here´s a secret: Many of the "warped" necks i get in from all over the world are actually warped because of the fretboard setting just a bit off then glued. This forces the neck to a warp that can be visible after a couple of years. But since no one has got warranty after a couple years this is irrelevant to manufacturers. I made a special jig that guarantees excellent results everytime. But it takes 10 minutes more time to use… Hence factories won´t use the method. And voila: Warped necks.

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Masking off the body.

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Ok, getting there! The holes for the dots are routed with a jig I made that set the dots in a exact position. My slight OCD goes bananas if it isn´t that way. Lol!

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This bass had a zero fret, I think it is the best way, you get a very natural open sounding open string response. And you´ll never have to set the nut height. So of course I did it this way as well. All our basses except for fretless has the zero-fret system.

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Frets in place and glued. Why glue? Well, for starters, as a bass manufacturer I have the luxury of doing A/B experiments and glued in frets sound better believe it or not. It´s time consuming, that´s why very few use the method though. Our frets lasts up to four times as long as the standard frets used. Less fret dressing, better tone. I can re-fret your bass / guitar with these ones. And I will always plan the fretboard to perfection before a refret. Just a fraction.

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Frets dressed off to an angle. then rounded off.

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Frets rounded off and waiting for polishing.

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During setup.

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Nut in ebony. the height of the nut is limited to the frets so no removal of the nut is necessary for fret dressing. Clever. 😉

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Now sports a fantastic response all over the fretboard and has a fantastic low B string undistinguishable from the E string. As it should be. Some would say scrap the bass but there was clearly a potential in it so instead he got a bass that plays and sounds like a €5000 bass and he is very happy with it.

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The goal is not only to make it look factory but even better than original. And it´s a totally different bass now. For the better.

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My signature.

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The customer drove 600 km to collect the bass! We had a fun afternoon setting up, good swedish fika and lunch. He couldn´t believe it was the same bass afterwards. This bass could have been used for spares but luckily it went my way instead! 🙂

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